Wine


Loire valley map

(map courtesy of The Wine Society & McHale Ward Associates)

The Loire Valley is one of the best wine growing areas in France, stretching from Sancerre in the east, through Vouvray, Chinon, Bourgeuil, and Saumur around Tours, to Anjou and the city of Angers and beyond. Here you can find fine whites (Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé, Vouvray), deep reds (Saumur Champigny, Chinon, Bourgeuil), and pretty much everything in between. You can find wines to suit every occasion and every wallet. You might like to read more about it on a site dedicated to the wine growing regions of the Loire valley. There is also more information with a different focus here.

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La Grange is about halfway between Sancerre in the east and Saumur in the west and for a day's outing those are about the limits we are prepared to drive - that's something like two hours in each direction.

Much closer to La Grange are the caves of Père Auguste in Civray-de-Touraine where you can taste the wines on offer and buy his wines direct from the chais. There are pictures on the walls of the original Père Auguste. The last time we were there his son was still active in the business and delighted to talk about his father.

We find that the "coopératives" are a good place to learn about, taste, and buy, the wine of the area. These are organisations which are owned by the smaller growers in the region and to which they send their grapes to be pressed and vinified. We have found those in Vouvray and Saumur Champigny to be especially worth a visit, and many of our guests have been very pleased with the wines from the Gourmandière at Francueil which is very close. Then, armed with an overview and some names and addresses, you can can visit the individual independent wine growers / makers.

If you would like a wider choice than "just" the Loire, then there are some good caves which offer wines from throughout France. The one we tend to go to is Les Belles Caves in a cave troglodyte in Larçay, close to Tours.

It is also possible to buy wine in "vrac", essentially in bulk. Sometimes the vintner is able to sell you a plastic container to put it in, but really the idea is for you to bring your own container and then bottle it yourself - or not, of course, it all depends on how fast you drink it!

The local white wine is usually made from sauvignon blanc. The local red can be more varied: gamay is traditional, as is côt, but generally the local reds are blends of grape sorts.

It is also quite possible to buy very drinkable wines from the supermarkets. Don't expect to find the big names and big price tags (although the bigger supermarkets sometimes offer those as well) but if you are prepared to experiment it is quite easy to buy good and interesting wines - usually with a local bias - at very reasonable prices.

The caves


The stone in the area was greatly prized for building chateaux, consequently large holes were made quarrying for stone which were then adopted as wine making and storage places. Some homes are also made (partially) in such caves, sometimes the chimney can be seen poking out of a grass field on top of the plateau! These homes are known as troglodyte (living in stone) houses.